Copyright 2009, Barking Dawgs Studio. Chandler, Az

 

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Chengdu China is not too far from the border of Tibet.  It is near the epicenter of the  2008 earthquake.  I was there for business in May (my 5th trip there in the past two years), and left only 11 days before the earthquake!  But this story is not about the earthquake, it is about the people of Chengdu.

Being a musician, I enjoy seeing the music stores in whatever country I am in  I wanted to buy a local  instrument. In China all the music stores in a major city are generally in one part of town.  I expect this is because they don’t have cars, and therefore, it is much more convenient to just go to one street, and find all your variety there.  In Chengdu, this street is just outside the main gates of the Sichuan Conservatory of Music . I had the concierge write down the basic location of the school.  This is how you let the taxi driver know where to drop you off.  I took my cryptic note out in front of the Hotel and waved down a taxi.  He gave the note a once-over and away we went.  He stopped at an intersection.  I paid, and got out.  I looked around, but I did not see any music stores.   Hmmm.  As you may remember from my other stories, there are not many people in Chengdu who speak English.  The secret in most any country is the same secret i tell adults when ask me about technical questions with their iPod: “Ask a teenager”.   This advice is best for travelers as well.  Teenagers are more likely to be taking English classes, and they often are willing to try their untested language out. Also, we were near the University, so I had that going for me as well.  I saw a young man walking down the street; carrying a music notebook with English on the cover.  “Excuse Me”, I said to him.  “Do you speak English”?  He stopped, looked around (not believing I was talking to him), and answer in broken, but clear, English, “Yes, a little bit”.  Now I have come to learn that “yes, a little bit” usually means a little more that you think.

My Chengdu Friend

Near Sichuan Music Conservatory

I asked him where I could find a music store.  He pointed up and beyond a twisted maze of buildings and said “this is the way”.  I looked, but my lack of confidence in my ability to get there was obvious.  His face lit up: “I can take you there”!?.  I gladly accepted, and at that, he turned around and we started back up the alley which he had just walked down.

As we walked, we exchanged names (I couldn’t pronounce his, so I cannot remember it…).  As we walked, he asked me questions right out the text books.  My name, where I am from, do I like China, etc.   As we walked, he had a giant smile on his face.  People we passed by called out to him.  He would answer back in Mandarin.  I asked him why he looked so happy.  He said, “Today is a very special day for me”.  Naively, I asked him why.  I thought it must be his birthday, or graduation.  He said something to me that humbled me beyond belief; “This is my FIRST time ever talking to an American”! I remember thinking…. uh… we’re really not that cool.  But I just smiled and took the complement.

We kept walking.  He asked me about my family.  I went through and told him about each member.  I asked him if he had a girlfriend.  He shyly said no.  I told him; “Now that you are famous for having an American Friend, maybe you will get a girlfriend!”.  He laughed out loud, and said, “yes… yes…. this may be true”.

My Chengdu Friend

My Chengdu Friend

We had arrived at the stores.  We went into each one and he was  my translator.  I ended up buying a Sheng.  I bought it for the owner of  a music store in Tucson who had asked me get them one. I also bought a harmonica to play with the Scottish band at our hotel that night (another story).

After an hour of so of hanging out with my new friend, I had to grab a taxi and head back to the hotel.   I was really happy to have gotten dropped off in the wrong neighborhood.  Otherwise I would not have met such a nice kid.  I gave him a business card, and told him to send me an email when gets an account (he did not have one yet).  So I hope to hear from him someday.



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In a previous post I wrote about hiking the Great Wall of China on the day before my 40th Birthday.  Here is a cute little story with cute little kids that has a cute little twist.

While I tour around, I always like to take pictures of the locals in their environment. I love taking pictures of kids.  As My friend Jeff and I were hiking up the Wall, we came by the two cutest kids you’ve ever seen.  They were sitting on this little rock just looking around.  They were dressed in their cute little outfits.  They looked like perfect little representations of the Western influence on Chinese cultures.  I wanted to take their picture. But I wanted to get their permission first.

So silently… I walk up to them. I give them a very friendly wave.  Saying nothing… the little girl could see that I could not speak her language.  So she took the lead and waved back.  I pointed to my camera… and then used my hands to pretend to take a picture.  I made my best head-nodding-friendly face. The little girl looked at her brother, they had this wordless conversation, as they thought about my question.  Then looking back at me, the little girl nodded her head.  I made a big sweeping smile gesture with my fingers along my face.  They gave me a big smile.  ”Neeeeee hao!!” I said to them (that means hello in Mandarin… my way to get them to say “cheeeese”.

I took this shot.

I smiled, bowed, and waved good-bye to them.  And as as I started to walk away, the little girl waved and exclaimed in a loud voice:  “We’re from Vancouver!”

Chinese Kids on the Wall

Chinese Kids on the Wall

Maybe I should have started with hello?



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The Bund by Day

The Bund by Day

If New York City and Las Vegas had a child, it would be Shanghai.  Endless buildings,  as far as you can see, reaching up to the heavens, lit up with vibrant neon colors.  In the year 2000,  I took my first trip to Shanghai China. I stayed at the beautiful Shangrila Hotel on the shore of the HuangPu river. The HuangPu river divides Shanghai into its east (Puxi) and west (Pudong) sections. Next to my hotel was the Oriental Pearl Tower.  This is the tallest tower in Asia, and the third tallest in the world.  It is 1535 feet high and provides the best photo opportunities in the city. Directly across the river from the hotel is The Bund.  This is a stretch of buildings built by the British to serve as their hub of business/government during their settlement of Shanghai. There is a river walk right behind the hotel which makes a for a great stroll before going to bed.  Absolutely beautiful at night.

Shanghai - The Bund

Shanghai - The Bund by night

Shanghai - The Pearl Tower

Shanghai - The Pearl Tower

Every night we would roam the streets; trying to learn all we could about the city in the short time we had. One night we ate dinner in the rotating restaurant at the top of the Pearl Tower.  Another night we ate dinner in the wonderful restaurant, “M on the Bund”.  Both had views to be remembered. They were mind boggling.

We were scheduled to fly back to Phoenix on Saturday morning.  That happened to be the day before 40th birthday.  If you fly out of China in the morning,  you arrive back in the USA the same calendar day… in the morning if you’re going to the West coast.  This is, of course, because you fly back over the international date line.

A group of the folks from our group decided they were delaying their return, and going to go to Beijing for a one day tour.   Hmmm….  I could leave as planned on Saturday and be home for my big 40th?  Or wait a day, see the Great Wall, and get home ON my birthday.  I decided I better check with the higher powers on this one… I called Alice.  When I presented my predicament to her, she said; “Are you stupid”.  I wasn’t sure how to answer this… cuz I do have my doubts.  I did grow up in a big family where I was reminded of that possibility frequently.  Oh well, I decided to stay.

We flew up late Friday night, and checked into the Shangri-La Beijing West Hotel.  My boss’ boss (Jim Cameron) and I stayed downstairs and drank a few interesting local Beijing Beers..  They were… well… cold…

Tiananmen Square

Tienanmen Square

The next day we hired a tour guide from the hotel and hit the road.  In the morning we strolled around Tienanmen Square, and walked through the Forbidden City (we had permission… cost-50RMB). We ate lunch at an amazing restaurant.  The tastes in the food were different than anything I had ever experienced.  I love spicy food.  And one of the dishes there had a spice to it that completely confused my senses.  It wasn’t until years later (when I traveled to Chengdu China) where I learned what that spice was.

That will be another story.

Great Wall July 29, 2000

Great Wall July 29, 2000

We end ended the day hiking on the Great Wall.  The Wall is very long… and it is not contiguous.  The location where we went to see The Wall was actually in a less populated area.  There were less tourists.  We actually had to take a ski lift up to the base of the wall, and then hike up the stairs to get to the top. My boss Jeff Bisgrove and I took off and hiked as far as we could hike in the time that we were given.  It was incredibly steep walking up the stairs. Some of the stairs were over one and a half feet high from step to step.  Also,  it was cool, and the air is thin there. I had a great workout for sure. We walked around for an hour or so before it was time to head back down the hill, and towards the airport.  This is where it got  fun.  One has their choice of methods to get back  down the hill.  You could go back down the ski lift, OR you could go down an alpine luge.  This is a plastic sled that travels down a cement luge track.  We chose the luge. It took about 5 minutes of sheer speed and winding tracks to get to the base.  What a blast!

We flew back the Shanghai that night, with plans to fly home in the morning; the morning of my birthday.  It was a lonely feeling checking into the hotel that night. I was staring at the clock when my head hit the pillow…JUST AS IT hit midnight.  I had just turned 40,  by myself, sitting in a hotel on the other side of the world.  It was then I realized why I had to have Alice’s blessing and prodding to stay.  I wanted to be home with my family for this milestone.

Great Wall Luge - Jim and Dave

Great Wall Luge - Jim and Dave

But the cool thing was, the next day when I got home, it was still morning!  Due to the change of time zones and crossing the International date line, my 40th birthday was 39 hours long.



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There is an excellent restaurant in Chengdu China which serves Peking Duck.  Now, Peking Duck is best served in Beijing (used to be called Peking).  This is a given.  But this particular restaurant in Chengdu does a pretty good job too.

Chengdu Taxi - G Srinivas

Chengdu Taxi - G Srinivas

There was a group of us employees from Intel who wanted to go out and try something different for dinner.  We had already been out to a traditional Hot Pot place, so I suggested this restaurant, which I had been to before. There was only one potential issue; one of our team (G Srinivasan) is a vegetarian, so we would have to make a special order for him, which can be tricky feat. (Quick segue) Chengdu China is a great place to eat.  There is a variety of food found, probably, nowhere else in China.  One thing is for sure; they love to eat meat.  There is meat at hawker stands everywhere you look.  They have meat on sticks which are roasted over open flames.  There are cups of special sauces for dipping your freshly cook mystery meat.

Chengdu China - Rabbit Heads

Chengdu China - Rabbit Heads

One of the delicacies there is deep fried Rabbit head.  I gotta admit… they do not look like rabbits.  I thought they were rats.  I did not try these. S0me of the restaurants in the more touristy part of towns have at least made some effort to put English translations on their menus.  I am not sure if this is a good idea.  Sometimes I think I would rather not know.  We were greeted at one place with a paper that advertised fresh Ox Dick.  We kept walking.  Goose Kidneys.  Pass.

Anyways, back to dinner.  This particular restaurant did not have an English menu.  Nor did *anyone* in the place speak a lick of English.  This is typical of Chengdu at this time of history.  You can go all day without finding one person who speaks English. But the BKM (Intel speak: Best Known Method) for ordering is to just point at the pictures. So I took charge and pointed to the Peking Duck picture, and made two fingers.  She smiles in clear understanding.  Then it was time for me to try to order something for G.  There was a picture of a rice dish; but it had vegetables AND meat in it.  I pointed to the rice… and nodded my head.  I pointed to the Vegetables and nodded my head.  She seemed to be with me.  Then I pointed to the meet and shook my head.  She looked bewildered?  Hmmm.  I tried it again.  I was remembering from my Shanghai days… charades do not work in China.  And way out in Chengdu it was even harder.  One problem is that they eat meat all the time… so this probably did not make sense for a lot of reasons.

Peking Duck in Chengdu China

Peking Duck in Chengdu China

Just then, a patron who obviously had been watching me struggle from her table came to my rescue. She walked over and asked in broken English; “I help you”?  YES you can!  I told her that my friend was a vegetarian.  She nodded in clear understanding.  I asked her to tell the waitress to bring him some rice and vegetables.  She said “of course!”.  She turned to the waitress and starting telling her what we wanted.  The waitress kept looking back and forth from the translator, to me.  She nodded her her head, but kept a puzzled look one her face, as if to say; “I hear what you are asking… but WHY would you NOT want the meat???”  The funny thing was, the translator kept talking to her for, like, 5 minutes straight!  How long can it take to say: “Rice and vegetables?”.  Anyways, she finally seemed to have the order straight. The waitress wrote it down and took off.  I tried to say something to the translator, but she did not understand me very well.  Her English skills were very weak.  So finally… I just said “thank you”.  Then she answered: “De Nada!”.  ”De Nada???”.  I cocked my head like a dog who just heard someone say something after breathing Helium.  ”De Nada??” I said back to her.  ”Oh”, she said… “I mean… your welcome”.  I said to her: “Puedes hablar Espanol?” (Do YOU speak Spanish??).   “Si, Si”, she said, looking at me with disbelief in my Spanish as well.  ”Por que hablas Espanol”?  I asked her (why do you speak Spanish??).  ”Porque yo vivo en Puerto Rico”, she replied.  I turns out, that this young woman from Chengdu studied Spanish in college and landed a job working for an importer in Puerto Rico.  We sat and conversed in the common second language that we shared.  We both laughed at our struggles to communicate in English, and how we would never have guessed that we had another option.   I thanked her again… in Spanish… and we went to our separate tables.

In a few minutes, the waitress brought out a beautiful plate of special food for G.  It was a lovely mix of Rice and steamed vegetables…. oh, and it was LOADED with chunks of ham.

Preparing Peking Duck

Preparing Peking Duck

Chengdu Taxi

Chengdu Taxi

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